Patrice Glairon-Rappaz, Paul Robach and Cédric Perillat tried from January 30 to February 5, 2011 the ascent of" Direttissima Harlin "on the Eiger North Wall. Cedric tells their adventure
"A perspective ambitious commitment to try the" Direttissima Harlin "of the Eiger North, open from 23 February to 25 March 1966 by some strong cords, American, English and German and several attempts with the help of hundreds of meters of fixed ropes.
In these forty years the street has not had many reps.
The first is attributed to Japanese who have spent three months here during the winter of 1970, with 2355 meters of fixed ropes ... After this feat was followed by the repetition of GMHM 18 days in the winter of 1978 (again with fixed ropes and everything else), then that of Tobin Sorenson and Alex MacIntyre in 4 days during the autumn of 1978. This is the first alpine-style repetition of the street. But the first ascent in alpine style and in winter remains to be done. Despite the help of fixed ropes left in place by GMHM, Slavko Sveticic has produced an incredible performance climbing alone in the street 26 hours on 15 and 16 January 1990, leaving the classical pathway of 1938. Performance by extraterrestrials! In seven days in February 1997, a team of four Russians has retraced the route in winter in this last version.
Eventually, after 1966 there has been no repeat of multiple views in alpine style (without the use of fixed ropes) in its original version. Read all about
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